LUCKY for you," remarks Bin Vanna over his shoulder to a visitor riding in the back seat of his four-wheel-drive vehicle. "Security better now." Along the 188 km of bumpy road between Phnom Penh and this scruffy provincial capital there are invisible landmarks. Here, one is told, is where that German lady lost a leg from a Khmer Rouge attack earlier this year. And there is the site of a robbery by the Khmer Rouge who emerged from those hills over there to ambush travellers, about three months ago.