The tourists didn’t return with shawls or saffron, or stories of the mountain trails and placid rivers of ‘paradise’—the epithet Mughal emperor Jehangir gave his pleasant summer retreat in the Valley in a couplet so clichéd that neither tourism nor terrorism in Kashmir is talked about without its evocation of heaven and, by implication, hell. This time they carried something else from the Valley: its stench of death, grief and outrage. Some didn’t return—they were sent home in coffins, like the soldiers who make it to the news after falling in gunbattles with terrorists in ‘paradise’. “Killable bodies,” some call them. Or like the hundreds of young men in Kashmir who leave home to join Pakistan-based terrorist organisations and mostly die younger than other young people of India.