“The moment you cross the border, you can see thousands of people standing in endless queues for food. People live in the most dehumanised conditions. The air is filled with the smell of hydrogen sulphide, methane and sulphur dioxide,” says Santhosh Kumar, a doctor working with Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF). Santhosh, the former South Asia Vice President of MSF, reached Gaza in November 2023 and worked there until April 2024. He recollects his experiences in Rafah and Deir Al Balah.