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Feni For Your Thoughts

A taverna crawl around Goa, following in the footsteps of the legendary traditional liquor

The feni in Goa is made from several sources, one being cashews
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Caution—the following sentence may be injurious to your health.바카라 웹사이트

The test of a good cashew바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트is to dip your finger in it and light it. If you succeed, it라이브 바카라 all good. If I’d followed this to the letter over the course of the evening and night, I’d have been pretty singed, ’cause the바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트we drank was uniformly good, and I think also a far cry from most commercial brands.

We were in Goa, the land of바카라 웹사이트susegad, where Hansel Vaz of Cazulo Feni knows nothing can be taken for granted. So, before organising the first ‘Cazulo taverna crawl’, he and the team from The Local Beat (a tour operator focused on providing uniquely Goan experiences for tourists) did a recce. They quickly realised that due to the oppressive heat, tavernas were closed during the afternoons. And that, in between the planning and execution, some tavernas had already closed, with one morphing into a cake shop.

For those nostalgic for the old ways, and a dose of local traditions, add Goa라이브 바카라 tavernas on your next trip along with your usual shacks. The taverna is an institution which owes its creation to Portuguese rule, as a place where the working class met. As Hansel explained in a preamble to the tour, there was never a tradition of binge drinking at one sitting in Portuguese culture, but one of consuming small amounts throughout the day.

Hansel had organised the taverna crawl as a signature event of the first-ever World Feni Week. The objective simple—introduce바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트to a motley crew of crawlers from across the world. On the agenda was exploring the taverna culture and visiting some of India라이브 바카라 oldest bars. The tavernas ranged from 40–70 years old, each revealing a charming fact about its existence. It was also to change the perception of the drink.바카라 웹사이트Feni바카라 웹사이트is usually classified as country liquor, and as a tourist, our exposure is limited to bottles in retail shops where my experience has not been the happiest. The old tavernas, in contrast, have a steady source of quality바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트but also reveal a facet of the culture in Goa.

The location and timings of most tavernas are uniquely linked to the distinct community they serve. The tavernas near Margao open at 3am to cater to the porters but the ones by the beaches open and close only to the rhythm of the arrival and departure of fishing boats.

For those interested, a바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트taverna licence costs바카라 웹사이트₹700 and only cashew and coconut varieties can be served.

Our first stop was at Salina라이브 바카라 in Cansaulim, located just outside the main market area. Bars like Salina라이브 바카라 generally serve some of the best small plates of richly-flavoured spicy beef, pork and chicken curries, and are always located near bustling markets. They offer tempting bites, ensuring a drink is never too far away. Our first drink was a shot of바카라 웹사이트urraq바카라 웹사이트(the first distillate of바카라 웹사이트feni) topped up with soda and a squeeze of lime. The mark of a good tavern, explained Hansel, is if they let you sample the바카라 웹사이트urraq바카라 웹사이트before you purchase it.

Before the next stop, we were joined by two musicians with a guitar, a clay pot and a set of lustful Konkani melodies.

Our next halt, Domnic Bar, was 73 years old. The bar was located in the heart of productive coconut orchards and catered as a watering hole to toddy tappers and the coconut plucker community. Shots of coconut바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트were poured out and we were served the most delicious mackerel cutlets. Hansel pointed out a taverna라이브 바카라 design feature—a large window in the wall from which drinks are dispensed. The pluckers and tappers preferred sitting outside without a shirt, and so Domnic라이브 바카라 had a verandah with seating. Like this tavern, most of them were owned by spinsters, generally the only woman in the bar.

Our travelling minstrels took up a bench and broke into song, providing a lovely backdrop as the evening settled around us. Before we got too comfortable, however, Mack from The Local Beat got us into a game of blind man라이브 바카라 bluff, where the aim was to earn an extra tot of바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트by knocking a coconut on the noggin. You get the drift.

The next tavern on our list catered to paddy farmers. Such tavernas are around paddy fields, where workers head for a quick drink after a hard day라이브 바카라 work. Thus we progressed on to Alex Bar for dinner—and more바카라 웹사이트feni, of course. Run by a Hindu man married to a Catholic woman, he served up beef and pork dishes with aplomb. A bit taken aback by the speed of the hungry crawlers as we demolished his mountain of바카라 웹사이트paos, soaking up the juicy chicken바카라 웹사이트xacuti바카라 웹사이트and pork바카라 웹사이트solantulem, his call for reinforcements made us cease our gluttony. Much to Hansel라이브 바카라 surprise, we were also served a little known바카라 웹사이트choriz바카라 웹사이트(Goan sausage) called바카라 웹사이트kathichem, stuffed only with spicy pork rind. It was an interesting texture, rich enough after a heavy round of바카라 웹사이트feni. However, I preferred my바카라 웹사이트choriz바카라 웹사이트the normal way.

As part of our tavern crawl education, Hansel informed us that there existed 19 kinds of coconut바카라 웹사이트feni. Coconut바카라 웹사이트feni, like gin, can be infused with a variety of flavourings, except that in바카라 웹사이트feni라이브 바카라바카라 웹사이트cases, it라이브 바카라 mostly a single botanical flavouring each time. Also, uniquely and conveniently, each바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트catered to patrons with different ailments—jeera바카라 웹사이트(cumin) for an upset stomach,바카라 웹사이트allem바카라 웹사이트(ginger) for a sore throat,바카라 웹사이트kodu바카라 웹사이트(bitter) for diabetics,바카라 웹사이트louson바카라 웹사이트(garlic) for the heart and so on. These vapour infusions are created by hanging a바카라 웹사이트potli바카라 웹사이트or pouch of the single botanical component by the mouth of the still, to allow the vapours to infuse into a beautiful alcohol.

Shots of jeera바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트(with Thums Up) and바카라 웹사이트cidre바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트(made with big Portuguese lemons) were poured out in turn. The band had picked up steam by the evening and struck up ‘Maria Pitache’, a lively number about love and treachery. A sing-along later, we headed to Vales Bar next to the paddy fields, where we had Goan Bacardi and Coke or dukhshiri with Coke. As the바카라 웹사이트dukh바카라 웹사이트(meaning pain, in Konkani) in the name indicates, the drink was specifically consumed to ease body aches. It라이브 바카라 also the local term for the Indian sarsaparilla (Hemidesmus indicus), a locally-foraged plant whose roots, we were told, have a ‘beautiful vanilla-earthy aroma’. It was the perfect soothing evening drink for tired paddy field workers in the area.

Our last stop for the evening was at Cardoz Bar at Colva, run, according to Hansel, by a master distiller and probably the last person who still knew how to make all 19 types of바카라 웹사이트feni. We entered the bar through his herb garden; all the natural flavourings were cultivated right there to make the different kinds of바카라 웹사이트feni, including the Gondhoraj lemon. Hansel took us to a dimly-lit shed to show how coconut바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트was made, and the tools of the trade.바카라 웹사이트

Then we took our seats in the backyard of the bar with just enough space for dancing. The musicians were in fine mettle by then. Different types of바카라 웹사이트feni, some of them rare, were served to us, including a brilliant ‘Café Conserva’ (coffee바카라 웹사이트feni). We were told it was once a dessert liqueur, served after local Goan weddings. It could quite easily replace coffee liqueur for me, and we could possibly make a great espresso martini with it.

There라이브 바카라 also a semi-mythical바카라 웹사이트feni바카라 웹사이트called Kõlléãcho, or fox바카라 웹사이트feni. It was believed to be a sure cure for tuberculosis, bronchitis and other respiratory illnesses back in the day when allopathic cures were yet to be found. It had to be specially commissioned and was hard work because it all began with hunting down a fox or jackal. If one was lucky, finding it as roadkill helped before the distillation process began, and the pot was always discarded after a single use!

This article is from our archives. It was first published in October 2019.바카라 웹사이트

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